La Garrotxa: the volcanoes behind the Costa Brava

50 kilometers behind the golden beaches of the Costa Brava lies a nature reserve that sunbathers barely know about: La Garrotxa. Take off your flip-flops, put on your hiking boots. Hiking, on a volcano!

Of course: everyone knows the Costa Brava for its golden beaches and hidden coves with crystal clear water. Of sea urchins, shells, but also of tapas and fried Churros, which you can dip in chocolate. But behind that rustling surf, an hour's drive from the tourist boulevards, you can still discover the real unspoiled nature of La Garrotxa: a surreal landscape with extinct volcanoes and petrified trees.

The volcanoes of La Garrotxa

There are forty of them: forty volcanoes that fell asleep tens of thousands of years ago – the last eruption was about 13 thousand years ago. So don't expect the classic volcano, because over the centuries the fertile lava slopes have been overgrown with forests. La Garrotxa National Park is divided in two by the Río Fluvià river, with Alta Garrotxa to the north and Baixa Garrotxa to the south – here you will find one of the most famous volcanoes of the 'Parc Natural de la Zona Volcanica': Santa Margarida. The volcano is 632 meters high and has a circumference of two kilometers. It's a tough climb, but once you're on top of the rim you can see the chapel below, built in the middle of the round crater. And you can go there too, if you want, via a steep descent.

Hiking on a volcano

Another frequently visited volcano is El Croscat, which produced its last plume of smoke 11,500 years ago. The crater is horseshoe-shaped and this volcano is also completely covered with holm oaks. Unlike the Margarida, you are not allowed to climb the Croscat crater, but there is a walking route around the volcano, through the Fageda d'en Jordà beech forest. You can also book guided tours, with an English-speaking guide, from Olot (website: en.turismegarrotxa.com). But there are also all kinds of hiking routes; most start at the parking lots around the area – and from there it's just a matter of following the signs. Then you will also pass excavations that have exposed the inside of the volcano: a complete slice of the volcano disappeared before it gained the status of a protected area. At the slice you can read more about the history of El Croscat on information panels.

Medieval discoveries

Nice excursions in the volcanic park are to Besalú, one of the oldest towns in Catalunya, with arguably the most photographed arch bridge in the region, which provides access to the steel city gate. In the village you will find numerous restaurants where you can eat delicious food. The village of Santa Pau is also worth a visit. Less known than Besalú, and therefore quieter in terms of tourists. And it is not far from the city of Olot, where you can enjoy shopping. And what about the hamlet of Castellfollit de la Roca, famous in Catalunya, which is built on top of a steep rock, with the Fluvià river below? Beautiful place! From the winding mountain roads you always have a spectacular view of the village – here you can take photos that your visitors will never believe is the hinterland of the Costa Brava…

Camping tips

1. Camping Laguna

In the Aiguamolls de L’Emporda National Park, you'll find the luxurious family campsite Laguna, directly on the beach. The campsite – near the town of Empuriabrava – has several swimming pools, plenty of sports facilities, and the terraces of both the bar and restaurant are right on the water. The campsite has two fishing ponds, there's a windsurfing school, and you can even go horseback riding in the area. Plenty of rental accommodations are also available.
(website:campinglaguna.com)

2. Camping Las Dunas

In Sant Pere Pescador, you'll find Camping Playa Las Dunas, a luxurious holiday park for families. The campsite is by the sea; you only need to cross the boulevard to roll out your towel. The campsite features a large swimming paradise, with an outdoor pool, a paddling pool, and a water slide. Las Dunas offers all possible facilities, including a restaurant, snack bar, pizzeria, and a large supermarket. Rental accommodations are also available.
(website: campinglasdunas.com)

3. Camping Can Banal

Those seeking peace and quiet can visit Camping Can Banal, north of the Fluvià river, on a 400-meter high hill. The nature campsite – with Dutch management – is surrounded by forests and an Eldorado for true nature lovers: here you can feel the silence! In the area, you can indulge in sports activities such as steep-wall climbing, horseback riding, and mountain biking. Fun fact: 5 Catalan donkeys graze on the campsite's estate.
(website:campingcanbanal.net)

4. Camping Canyelles

Camping Canyelles is not a standard campsite. The amazing sea view from your camping chair and the various fragrant deciduous and coniferous trees form the basis of this campsite. The terraced campsite is located on a mountain near the picturesque bay Cala Canyelles with rock formations, a small harbor, a nice bar, and a good restaurant. This is one of the most beautiful bays in Girona. Your calf muscles can get a good workout during a stay at this campsite. Do you want to avoid the climb? That's also possible. A small train runs up and down the mountain daily, at various times, so you don't always have to walk.The campsite is equipped with a supermarket, restaurant, and entertainment for the children. The swimming pool is the bustling center of the campsite where everything comes together. If you want more action, Lloret de Mar and the charming Tossa de Mar are 'around the corner' and... within an hour and a half you can be in Barcelona!

(website:www.campingcanyelles.com/nl/)

How to get there

Distance Utrecht – Girona: approximately 1,420 km

The volcanic area La Garrotxa is just over an hour's drive from the Costa Brava beaches and 50 km northwest of the city of Girona. From Utrecht, you drive via Antwerp and then Lille, Paris, Lyon, and then via Montpellier, follow the signs for Girona. From there to the campsite of your choice. Or you drive from Utrecht via Luxembourg (cheap refueling), via Metz/Nancy/Dijon and then towards Lyon and then as described above.